The White Hat Guide to Charles Grimes

Charles Grimes
Surveyor, explorer

Charles Grimes was the acting chief surveyor of New South Wales in 1803 when he was put in charge of an expedition to survey Port Phillip Bay, He set sail from Sydney on 29 November 1802 in the Cumberland (a schooner of 29 tons built in Sydney) with Lieutenant Charles Robbins, James Flemming (botanist) and a supporting party. Part of their instructions were to warn off the French and to point out that this was British territory - even though it wasn't as yet settled by the British.

They surveyed several islands in Bass Strait and spent some time on a larger one which was named after the Governor of New South Wales - King Island. (King street in Melbourne was also named after Governor King). It was on King Island that Grimes and his party encountered Captain Baudin with two French ships.

Grimes' party then went on to examine Port Phillip Bay

In February 1803 the Grimes party explored the lower reaches of the "saltwater and freshwater rivers" (the Maribyrnong and Yarra) around the present day location of Melbourne.

During the latter part of the 19th century major works were to alter the course of the Yarra both for flood control and for the major dock works.

This work shifted the junctions of the two rivers quite a distance from the original location that Grimes had explored. In 1941 a monument was erected near the original location of the junction (see photo right). The inscriptions read:

Several comments are necessary about the above inscription. We now know that the Calcutta, although stopping for water at Kananook Creek near modern day Frankston, did not enter Hobsons Bay and that the first Man O'War in Hobsons Bay was HMS Rattlesnake on 29 September 1836. Johnny Fawkner's ship was the Enterprize with a 'z'. Finally, of course, this area had been known by its inhabitants, the local Aborigines, for many centuries. Hence words like "discovered" and "refound" reflect the European world view of the time. Ask a White Hat accredited guide to point out the location of the monument and the original junction of the Yarra and Maribyrnong Rivers.

The following extract from Charles Grimes' diary commences on 24th January 1803.

"18 Survey of Farms & Cow Pastures

Co. Cumberland [N.S.W.]

General Observations — Port Phillip 1802 & 1803

24^th Traced to the Salt-water lagoon. The ground was in general very hilly — a light soil — with Rocks — we crossed a few gullies but all brackish water —

25- traced on about 5 miles — the ground very light — sand & gravel

26- Walked over to Western Port over the worst ground I almost ever passed — Mr McCallum was so much fatigued — that we were obliged to leave him with my servant - on our return to the vessel we found my servant had come to get some Comforts for the Doctor.

27- A large Party went to find Mr McCallum — on their Arrival they found he had left the place he has slept at — and could not trace him — the Party returned about 4 o’clock

28^th Two parties went in search of Mr. McCallum - on Mr Robbins and myself returning about 2 o’clock we fortunately found the Doctor — had got on board the schooner — very much reduced —

29th The ground during this day’s walking was very bad.

30^th This day traced along a low sandy shore - swampy at the back — met a freshwater stream — which was parallel with the Beach.

31- A wet morning — landed about Noon. We walked inland over a poor sandy soil with a little low timber — the hills back = were covered with heath and scarce a bush to be seen.

1 Feby. The Bank of the harbour moderately high, and thinly wooded — the Ground at the back an open heath & the soil a poor light sand.

2^nd Traced to the mouth of the River - along this day’s work the Coast is less swampy & where we could see back in different places, the Country appeared full of swamps.

3^rd Traced up the N.W. branch of the River — where the land was high, it was covered with stones and where low a swamp- - from the top of the hills the country on all sides presented an open grassy plain — without timber — as far as the eye could reach.

4^th Traced up the Eastern branch of the River — about 3 miles as far as the Tide flows = there is large swamp on both sides: above the Ground gets higher — and better - & the timber moderately large but very crooked.

5^th Traced a small part of the Harbour — soil stiff clay and very stony —

6^th Traced the W. side of the Bight from the mouth of the river - gentle rising Hills — very stony stiff Clay soil —

7^th Traced the upper part of the Eastern branch of the River — the sides are alternately high - and low - and the soil good — particularly the low points — which are similar to the best land about the Hawkesbury — but there are marks of their being much overflowed — there are a few Blue Gum Trees but they do not grow tall, the Banksias is large, but much decayed.

8th Traced up to the fall — above the fall the Country after rising the bank — is level & thinly wooded - a stiff clay soil and very stony - returned to the vessel.

9^th Traced about five miles to the westward — along the side of the extensive grassy plain which runs to the foot of the Mountains & stony — [3-4 lines crossed out, including the words ‘the soil very bad’]

The shore for about a quarter of a mile in is v. swampy with a little underwood before you come to the grassy plains.

10^th Traced about six miles along the side of the grassy plain & returned to the vessel — the latter part steep clay cliffs washed by the tide.

11^th Blew so fresh from the West that the Vessel could not move — remained on board

12^th Run across the Western branch and landed in the evening & prepared to trace the branch taking provisions in the boat & leaving the vessel.

13^th Traced down the S. side of the Western branch — the hills rise gently but very tolerable land.

14^th The beginning of this day’s work — the land is swampy, the latter past gentle rising hills — of a good soil — but thinle wooded

15^th From the swamp left yesterday the Hills were very bad […?] From the River the Ground becomes less swampy near the Shore — back — an open country — stiff clay soil & stony.

16^th Low swampy shore — land back very thinly wooded & stony — soil a stiff clay

17th Low swampy shore — back the same as yesterday at the end of this day’s work. There is a River — but very short — at the entrance — went on board the Cumberland.

18^th The land moderately high & good — but thinly wooded

19^th Traced to the entrance of the short bason — the latter part of this day, the land less swampy

20^th Traced part of the bason & the S. side of the entrance a less swampy shore all round — the bason full of sand Banks-

20^th traced from the south side of the Bason to the W. entrance of the Harbour — from the ….neck of sand the land rises gentle but very poor light soil — very thinly wooded — there is but a small neck of land between the lower end of the bason and the entrance of the port.

22^nd Traced from the E. entrance of the harbour — to were I began the 22 Jany. — gentle rising sand hills — thinly wooded

Sailed from Port Phillip 27^th Feby.

Port Phillip - is in general very swampy — the high lands are thinly wooded with low & crooked Blue Gum Trees — banksias - & Oaks but all very bad of their kind, the soil in general a light sand - & stony - for the Hills the low lands a stiff clay - & in general very stony — it is very badly watered.

C. Grimes"

Monument erected near the original junction of the Yarra and Maribyrnong Rivers to commemorate their 'discovery' by Grimes in 1803